Woven vs. Nonwoven Interlining: Key Differences
1. Base Material Structure
Woven Interlining: Made by weaving yarns (cotton, polyester, or blends) on a loom → has distinct grain lines (warp/weft).
Nonwoven Interlining: Made by bonding fibers (usually polyester or polypropylene) with heat/chemicals → no grain direction.
2. Performance & Handling
Durability:
Woven: Withstands repeated washing/dry cleaning → ideal for tailored suits or heavy coats.
Nonwoven: Prone to tearing when wet or after frequent laundering → best for short-term/disposable items.
Drape & Flexibility:
Woven: Moves with fabric naturally → preserves garment fluidity (e.g., jacket lapels).
Nonwoven: Stiffens fabric → adds structure but reduces drape (e.g., crisp shirt collars).
3. Application Methods
Cutting & Shaping:
Woven: Must be cut along grain lines → bias cuts for curves; misalignment causes twisting.
Nonwoven: Cut in any direction → faster for complex shapes (e.g., rounded pocket flaps).
Bonding:
Woven: Primarily sew-in (stitched between layers); fusible options exist but risk delamination.
Nonwoven: Mostly fusible (iron-on) → quick but may peel under heat/friction.
4. Cost & Production
Manufacturing:
Woven: Slow, labor-intensive weaving → higher cost.
Nonwoven: Mass-produced in minutes → budget-friendly.
Waste:
Woven: 15-20% fabric waste from cutting.
Nonwoven: Near-zero waste → fibers bonded to shape.
5. Common Use Cases
Scenario | Better Choice | Why |
Business Suit Jacket | Woven | Holds shape after years of wear/dry cleaning |
Fast-Fashion Blouse | Nonwoven | Low cost; adequate for 1-2 seasons |
Quilted Tote Bag | Nonwoven (ultra-stiff) | Creates rigid structure without bulk |
Silk Scarf Hem | Woven (lightweight) | Prevents fraying without stiffening |
6. Limitations
Woven Interlining:
Not for stretch fabrics (lacks elasticity).
Grain-matching errors distort garments.
Nonwoven Interlining:
Weakens when wet → avoid for swimwear/activewear.
Heat-damages delicate fabrics (lace, faux leather).